STAGE 14 Painting The Model
Part Two-Applying
the last paint FX
Hello fellow RTT fans and model builders. Well here we
are, the last stage of "Raise The Titanic!" - Bring The Model Home.
I have combined both Stage 14 and 15 due to the fact that the final stage
of the model, the painting FX is a much shorter process.
Applying the last
paint FX - part one
The Ships Funnels
Please read the
following carefully if you applying the paint FX with a airbrush as
application will different than applying with a brush
The last part of applying the paint FX in stage 13 has left your RTT
model with a complete black hull, grey upper structures, black topped
funnels with a mist coat of black put over them. For the last painting FX
you will need only 3 colors, they are: matte light grey
matte earth brown
matte rust red
I would recommend that you buy these as tins instead of
aerosol canisters.
Taking the
matte earth brown and a small brush, thin the paint down
with thinners. Don't make the paint too thin, then proceed to paint the
deck mud ONLY. Be careful not to paint any of the railings, vents
and structures of the ship. Next we can then apply the last FX to the
funnels. Thin down a small amount of the
matte rust red and wash
over the funnels, but do not paint the top of the stacks that are
painted black. Leave the paint to dry for 5 minutes in normal room
temp, then using some clean paint thinners, wash the funnels to remove
small amounts of the rust red. At this stage you can wash over the
funnels tops that are painted black to dirty them up.
Applying the paint FX
- part two
The Ships Hull &
Superstructure
Thin down some of
the
matte light grey and using a small sponge, wash over the hull
with the thinned down grey. Try not to apply to much grey to the model.
When the paint has dried we can move onto the next stage. Again, thin down
some of the
matte rust red and using a sponge, lightly start from
the base of the model and going up one inch up the sides of the
hull, cover the hull with the rust. Do not go any higher than one
inch. The base of the model with the rust should start dark and go lighter
as you go up the side. After you have done this, thin the
rust red down a bit more and using a large paint brush, wash all over the
model. Put the model then to one side and leave to dry. Rusting Up The Ships
Anchors
The last stage of
coloring is on the ships bow anchors. Using again the
matte rust red,
use straight from the tin, paint the bow anchors in rust, then using a
fine brush, run the paint brush from the "hauser" and anchor down to the
bottom of the hull. While the paint is still wet, dip the brush in some
paint thinner and blend the rust into the bottom of the hull to
loose it. Raise The Titanic
Final Painting Stage
Now that your RTT
model is finally all colored up, there is one last thing to do and that
is seal all the colors and textures in. We can do this by using satin
varnish either in tin form or aerosol canister. Making sure that the
area around your model is covered with sheets and the room well ventilated
we can then apply the varnish all over the RTT model. The varnish
from a canister is usually touch dry within 6 hours, but I strongly
recommend that you leave the model for at least 24 hours. "Raise The Titanic!"
- Replica Movie Model
And so there we have it - she is finished and ready to be displayed. If
you have decided not to use the display stand that already comes with the
kit, but wish to display your model some other way, take a look at Stage 15below for another way of showing off your model.
THUMBNAILS
Modeling "Raise The
Titanic!" In Small Scale
Another way of
modeling your RTT replica movie model is to build her from small scale.
One kit is the cheaper and smaller 1/600th scale by Academy Models. The
kit is highly detailed with windows cut out and deck and hull detailing.
Like the bigger 1/350th version, you can purchase from
tomsmodelworksthe photo etched parts for this scale of
kit. The only thing with building a RTT replica from a model of this
scale, you will not be able to use the textured finish on the hull as it
will be over scaled. Below are a few photo's of my "proto type" 1/600th
scale to give you an idea of what she would look like in small scale.
THUMBNAILS
STAGE
15
INCLUDING
- Raise The Titanic Model Photo Montage
Please use the photo
montage as a reference guide for painting your model
Movie Model Replica
Photo Montage
Below I have
selected a large amount of images of my finished replica model. By using
these images, you will be able to build your model and get an idea of what
she will look like when completed.
THUMBNAILS
Building a seafloor
base for your RTT model
(Basic Guide)
Thumbnail
A good way of
displaying your model is by putting it onto a seafloor base. The base I
have made for my RTT model is made from wood, cardboard and plaster. When
making the base, you must remember that the model is to sit with her stern
up off the floor, her bow slightly down and she is sitting at a 10 degree
angle on her Portside. Cut a large wooden base measuring 36 x 12 inches
from a 1/2 inch plywood or MDF. If you wish, to make the sides more
effective and decorative, attached some molding onto the sides of the
base. Next, take some thick cardboard. Cut to fit the whole base.
Before you glue it down, you will need to mark and cut out the hull
pattern. Place the model onto the card in the center and then draw around
the outer edge of the hull, but only going to the middle of the ship,
don't
include the stern. When you have done this, cut out the shape. I would
recommend that you have the cardboard some 10mm deep to give the
best effect. Glue the cardboard onto the wooden base. When dry, build a
"step" design, sections of card, the bottom card bigger than the top piece
and glue into place were the stern area of the ship will sit. This will be
used to "lift" the back of the model up. Make sure that the card is not
too big, it will only need to be small. Next mix up some modeling plaster
and spread all over the base area of the seafloor. Before it starts to
set, shape the floor into the design that suits you. When you have done
this you can leave it to dry. Next, coat the seafloor with glue and
scatter some of the "scenic chippings" all over. When the glue and
chippings have dried, you can them paint the whole of the seafloor using
paint that matches the
earth brown that you have put on the models
decks. When the paint has dried, you will need to seal in all the
chippings by using clear matte varnish. When again dry, you will be able to
place you built RTT model into the slot of the seafloor where she will
appear to be listing to one side with her stern slightly in the air. With Thanks
I would like to say a big thank you to the following people for all their
help, support and contributions during the building of this model over the
last 7 months. If it wasn't for these people, the model would not have
been built:
Mini Craft Models, Toms Model Works, Daily Mirror News Papers, Lord Lew
Grade, ITC, Clive Cussler, Simon Mills, Ken Marschall, Grangers Models,
Humbrol Paints PLC, Titanic Research & Modeling Association, Colin Dawson
& Tony Squire
A special thank you must
go to my good friend Gabe for not only welcoming me to the site, but for
putting the model up on the site over the last 7 months. And for my
girlfriend Toni Ann for putting up with my nagging and constant mess
around the house and all you RTT fans out there.
