• Stage 1-6/29/2002 • Stage 2-7/15/2002 • Stage 3-7/29/2002 • Stage 4-8/15/2002 • Stage 5-8/29/2002 • Stage 6-9/15/2002 • Stage 7-9/29/2002 • Stage 8-10/15/2002 • Stage 9-11/15/2002 • Stage 10-11/29/2002 • Stage 11-1/19/2003 • Stage 12-2/15/2003 • Stage 13-2/28/2003 • Stage 14 & 15-3/29/2003 •

Print Stage 13

STAGE 13
Painting The Model
Part One

    Hello fellow RTT fans and model builders. Welcome to Stage 13 of "Raise The Titanic!" - Bring The Model Home. During the next two stages, I will be showing you how to apply the paints and effects to your model. The last stage (Stage 15) will be a photo montage showing the model when finished.

I will also include in Stage 15 some photos of the "Seabed" that I have constructed for my RTT model to sit on. I will also include a basic guide on how to create one for yourselves.

The model I have been building will be used for Titanic Exhibitions. The first show will be here in the UK this coming April at the British Titanic Society Convention that is to be held at the Hilton Hotel in Southampton. The model will then travel over to Belfast (Ireland) to be on display for a 10 day Titanic event to mark the 91st anniversary of the sinking of the liner in the city that built her back in 1912.


"Raise The Titanic!" In Paints
Applying The Grey Coat To The Hull
     Back in 1912, the Titanic was in her White Star colors, Black hull with anti fouling red bottom, white superstructure, teak decks, "buff" yellow funnels with black tops. She must have been a sight to anyone who came aboard her in Southampton, Cherbourg and Queenstown.

     For our RTT model, we have got to loose most of those colors and make her look like she has been sitting on an ocean floor for 68 years. The film model was coated in concrete to give the impression of corrosion building up on the surface of the model. In the last stage, we applied the effects for the concrete, now we need to seal the "effect" with a grey coat paint. This will not only seal in the textured paint but will also give the ship it base color.

     At this stage, you will only be needing two colors for the model - matte light grey and matte black. You can either use these in there aerosol form or if using an airbrush system, in there small tins of either Enamel or Acrylic. 

     For my model, I have chosen to use the enamel aerosol. When painting the model, make sure you are in a well ventilated room. Cover all surfaces with sheets to stop "over spray" from sticking. I will also recommend that you use a paper face mask to prevent breathing in the paint fumes. Holding the canister 12 -18 inches away from the model, apply the first coat. Do not build the coats up too strongly, only "mist" the coats on. Cover the WHOLE model in the matte light grey. You will need to give your model at least 3 to 5 "mist" coats of the grey.

Thumbails

     When you have done this, leave your model for at least 24 hours for the paint to dry for the next color.

Applying The Black Coat To The Hull
     Now that the grey paint has hardened, we can now apply the next paint color. As before, making sure you have a well ventilated and dust sheeted room, well can now start with the matte black.  Firstly we need to "mask" off sections of the ship before we can paint again. Using a low tack tape, mask off the forward section of the bow area, the outer walls of the fo'castle. Move then to the inside walls of the forward well deck. Mask up to the line of the superstructure them mask up the inside of the rear well deck and outer walls of the poopdeck. After you have done this, you will be able to  attach masking paper (try an old newspaper) to stop paint from hitting the top of the model.

     Using the same technique as with the grey paint, "mist" coats of matte black onto the hull. Using a sponge, lightly dab the surface of the hull while the paint is still wet. This will remove access paint to reveal some of the grey coat underneath. We do not the hull to strong a black color. We can paint the whole area of the hull, including the underneath of the hull as there are no traces of the anti fouling paint showing. Wait for 24 hours for the paint to harden before removing the tape away from the model. Be careful when removing the tape, always pull the tape away from the model at a angle and not to fast. If any of the paint has gone under the tape and attached itself to the grey, you can use a fine paint brush to "touch" up the area.

Thumbnails

Applying The Black Paint To The Funnels
     Painting the tops of the funnels is a little more tricky than painting the hull. You will not need to mask any sections of the funnels up for this next section. Get some matte black paint that has been lightly "thinned" down and apply to the inside tops and outer sides of the stacks. Leave 20 minutes between coats as the funnel tops will need about 3 coats. Like the hull, we need the grey coat to "bleed" through the matte black.

Thumbnail

Applying The Funnel Effects
Part One
(The next stage of the funnel effects will be in Stage 14)
     The Titanic's towering 68ft tall smoke stacks were originally painted in White Star Line "buff" yellow satin matt paint. As the "Raise The Titanic!" movie model has lost its "buff" colors, we will need to finish them in its wreck color. Using the color still photograph, you will see that the stacks are a dull grey coat with hints of black and brown surface colors.

     Take a small container and put a small amount of matt black paint into it. Thin the paint down to form a "watery solution" that can be washed over the funnels. We will need to have the paint very thin as the original grey coat of the stack needs to "bleed" through. Apply a coat to the stacks, making sure not to make the solution run. You will need to coat the funnels with 2 or 3 coats to get the right effect. Leave the funnels to dry for 2 to 3 hours. The effect you should get is a dirty looking funnel. The last effect on the funnels will come in Stage 14.

Thumbnail

Your "Raise The Titanic!" At The End Of Stage 13


     So there we have it for Stage 13. Coming next time, we will finish the funnels with the last effect. Coming up in Stage 14, we will be painting the decks and applying an overall surface coat to give the look of aging to the ship. If you have any question that you would like me to answer or any general inquiries about the making of the model, you an email me on raisethetitanic1@aol.com

See you all soon for the last but one stage of

"Raise The Titanic!"  - Bring The Model Home

Happy sailing

John

Print Stage 13

Click Here to Continue for Stage 14 & 15