STAGE 12
Finishing the bridge
cabs, scratching building the forward mast "cargo" booms, fitting the mast
"broken" Ariel and coating the hull in "textured" paint
*Please
Note*
Always keep your model instruction booklet to hand at all times for part
numbers & reference.
*WARNING!*
If your
child would like to build this model, please read the instructions below
as there are many times that sharp tools will be used.
Hello fellow RTT fans and welcome to Stage 12 of "Raise The Titanic!" -
Bring The Model Home. This will be the last installment of the model
assemble. The next stages from 13 to 15 will be painting the model and
applying aging effects. During Stage 12 we will be finishing the deck
details of the ship from the bridge cabs and fitting the cargo booms to
the forward mast. Also during this stage, we will be texturing your model,
a process that does not have to be carried out, only if you wish to have
enhance your model. So here we go with Stage 12.
Starboard Bridge Cab
& Inner Wing Remove from the parts tree
the Starboard side L shaped inner wing and bridge cab cap.
Making sure that the slot in the deck is clear of any obstruction, glue
the inner wing into place. When you have done this you can then proceed
with fitting the cab top into place.
Portside Bridge Cab &
Inner Wing
Repeat the above installation but using the Portside parts. Pipe On Boat Deck Looking at one of the screen
shots in the movie, I can see an outline of what seems to be a pipe
sitting next to one of the boat deck vents. This pipe is resting on the
Portsideof the deck, and for what I can make out, could be the
remains of the air pipe that connects to the top of the extractor fan at
the back of the forward funnel. If you have the pipe supplied with the
kit, you can glue it into place or you can cut one to shape using a 1mm
brass or plastic rod.
Fitting The Mast
Ariel Support Before her tragic sinking,
the Titanic had a huge ariel wire that fitted between the masts. On your
RTT model, the remains of the ariel can be seen on the Poopdeck of the
movie model. For the ariel support you can use the one on the kit or make
them from plastic or brass rod. Using the photograph below, fit four
lengths of thread at 3 inches long to the rod. Glue the rod onto
the deck as seen in the picture and trace the wires the rear Well Deck and
loose them in the mud. Forward Mast Cargo
Booms On the forward mast of the
ship you will notice the cargo booms last have worked loose and are lying
around the deck. On the real Titanic, she only had the one fitted to the
mast, but for the movie model there were some 6 fitted, and its one of
these that is blocking the cargo hatch that holds the byzanium. To make
the booms for your model, you can either use a plastic or brass rod at
1mm. Cut 2 lengths of rod at 20mm, 2 lengths at 35mm and
2 lengths at 40mm.
Use the photographs below as a guide for fitting the rods into place.
Fit the 20mm rods to the BACK of the mast, then
fit the 35mm rods onto the FRONT of the mast with the Starboard rod
sitting on top of the Portside rod. The final two 40mm rods can be
bent and fit into place. Remember that one of these rods NEED to sit on
top of the No1 hatch cover.
There we are, your "Raise The Titanic!" model is
completely built. All that is left to do is texture and paint the model.
Texturing Your "Raise
The Titanic!" Model When the original movie model
was built in 1979, they used concrete sprayed onto the surface to give the
impression of 68 years of corrosion and encrustation. I have spent some
time trying to find a perfect solution to use on the model to create this
effect. What I came back with was "Fleck" spray. This high pressured
aerosol contains a wonderful textured finish that resembles concrete. This
spray paint can be obtained from many DIY stores at around £5.99 / $10.00.
It comes in four colors Brown, blue, white and green. For your RTT model
you will be needing brown. Applying it to the model is easy. Using a fine
sand paper, slightly key the surface of the hull and superstructure of the
model. Mask up the flat tops of the 2 skylight covers between the 1st and
2nd stacks and the 3rd and 4th stacks as you will not need to get "fleck"
onto these. When applying the "Fleck", make sure you do this in a well
ventilated room. Cover areas with paper or dust sheets as this paint with
travel. Holding the can some 12 to 18 inches away from the model,
lightly mist a first coat onto the model. Do this evenly. Wait 20 minutes
between coats as your model will need 3 - 4 coats of "Fleck". Try not to
build up the "Fleck" in one place. Cover the decks, hull, superstructure
and external fixtures of the model with the spray. When you have done his,
the model needs to be left for 24 hours without being touched. When
the "Fleck" is dry, try not to handle the model as the "Fleck" will start
to fall off. In Stage 13, we can coat the model to prevent the "Fleck"
from coming away.
I must point out at
this stage, it is totally down to you at whether or not you wish to
texture your model.
There is another way of texturing your model if you cannot find any of the
"Fleck" spray. Stores that sell motor spares and paints will stock a
flexible paint used on car panels called "Stone Chip". This paint also
comes in aerosol in range of colors. This too has a textured finish that
will be ideal for our model. Use the same guide lines for applying this
paint as above. Below is a photograph of the bridge section of the RTT
model showing the "Fleck" textured spray effect. Your "Raise The
Titanic!" Model - So far So that's it for Stage 12.
After applying the textured effect, you will need to leave the model to
one side to dry for at least 24 hours. Try not to handle your model as the
textured finish will start to come away in your hands as the model will
not be sealed until Stage 13.
If you have any questions for me, you can contact me on
raisethetitanic1@aol.com
All the best
John
COMING UP IN STAGE 13
Applying the colored base coat, painting the hull black, painting the
smoke stacks and super structure
