Stage 8-10/15/2002

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• Stage 1-6/29/2002 • Stage 2-7/15/2002 • Stage 3-7/29/2002 • Stage 4-8/15/2002 • Stage 5-8/29/2002 • Stage 6-9/15/2002 • Stage 7-9/29/2002 • Stage 8-10/15/2002 • Stage 9-11/15/2002 • Stage 10-11/29/2002 • Stage 11-1/19/2003 • Stage 12-2/15/2003 • Stage 13-2/28/2003 • Stage 14 & 15-3/29/2003 •

Print Stage 8

Stage 8
 Funnel skins, funnel top gratings, funnel wires (next step), forward mast, rear mast, prow mast, Poopdeck mast, forward vent, mast cowling vents, vent support rod and lifeboat davits

*Please Note*
Always keep your model instruction booklet to hand at all times for part numbers & reference.

*WARNING!*
If your child would like to build this model, please read the instructions below as there are many times that sharp tools will be used.

     Greetings fellow RTT fans. Welcome to STAGE 8 of "Raise The Titanic!" - Bring The Model Home. During Stage 8, your RTT model will have those now famous bow cowling vents fitted. I have recently received an email with regards to the large covering that goes over the forward Grand Staircase on the RTT model. The movie model version is slightly larger than the one that is fitted to your kit. I do not have any reasons as to why the movie version of Titanic had this larger skylight, but the one supplied with the kit is of the right size and dimensions, so there is need to worry. Also again during Stage 8, I have decided to move the "mudding up the boat deck" until the next stage as it would be a lot easier for you all...... So lets cracking with the model.

Fitting Starboard & Portside Promenade Walls
(Includes bridge & promenade walls joints)
     
Starting off Stage 8, we can fit the Starboard and Portside outer Promenade Walls. Fitting these can sometimes be a bit tricky as the walls try to separate from the decks if you don't keep your eye on them. After putting the glue to the inside of the walls, place the walls onto the model, but only do this one at a time. It will be easier for your to hold the walls in place by using tape. But try not to leave the tape on for more than a day as the glue form the tape will stick to the plastic. You will notice that where the walls meet the bridge section, there will be a gaps. Here you will need to fill the gaps in with modeling putty  or modeling filler. This stage can be done at any time from now up till the time of painting the model. When filling the gaps, try not to fill in the windows of the Bridge Wing Cabs.


Poopdeck Mast
     Take part number C12 from the parts tree and fit to deck.

Prow Mast
     The very tips of a ships bow is called the "Prow". On your RTT model you will need to make a small mast that fits to the deck behind the bulkhead your made in the earlier stages. Cut a 20mm length of fine brass or plastic rod. Then attach a length of minor filament wire 12 inches in length. Fold the wire in half at 6 inches and glue 3mm from the base of the mast. Drill a small pilot hole 2mm deep into the deck area behind the tip of the bows bulkhead. Now you can glue the small mast into place. 

Funnel Inner Skins
     Now you can fit the funnels inner skins. Take the remaining 3 skins F2 and glue into position inside the tops of the 1st, 3rd and 4th funnels. When you have done this, paint the inside and outside of the inner skins (using a fine brush) matt black. When the paint has dried you can then fit the funnel gratings. Follow your model instruction booklet for reference of where the correct gratings are to be fitted. 

Funnel Wires
Creating the broken wires
     Using the diagrams below, you can now change the funnel wires. Looking at the broken 2nd funnel there appears to be no funnel wires. But the other 3 stacks have most of the wires either attached or unattached. The diagram shows where the wires on each funnel need to be broken. The wires that are shown as - - - - - -  are the wires that are completely missing, so these can be cut from the top of the funnel and boat deck with a knife. The wires that are shown to be loose and snaked around the other wires need to be cut from the boat deck ONLY. For snaking the broken wires around the other wires can be a bit tricky, so take your time. When you have got the wire into the position you like best, you can then place a small amount of enamel glue onto the wire to hold it into place.
Thumbnails
Funnel Ladders
     Now is a good time to fit the funnel ladders. If you are not using the brass ladders from
tomsmodelworks, then you can use the plastic ones supplied kit. Follow your model instruction booklet very carefully when cutting and fitting the ladders.

Forward & Rear Masts
     Take part J1 (forward mast) and G6 (crows nest) from there parts tree and glue together. Now glue the forward mast into place. Remember that the masts are racked back at the same angle as the funnels. Again take part J2 and glue into position. When the glue has dried, you can then paint a coat of light matt brown over the masts.


Forward (single) Cowling Vent
     Now it scratch building time. Take one of the spare cowling vents that's were removed from the "raised roof" area in Stage 7. If it has the small nipple still attached, you will need to cut this off so the base of the vent is flat. Making the main tube of the vent can be used from either some of the finer parts tree plastic that you have spare or from plastic or brass piping.   Cut some piping at a length of  25mm with a diameter of the cowling vent. Making sure that both sections are of the same size, you can then glue to two pieces together. When fitting the vent into the deck, make sure the pre-drilled hole you made at the earlier stage of the model are cleaned out. Make a small pen mark from the base up on the vent at about 5mm. Place glue up to that mark and fit into the deck, pushing the vent into the hole up to that same mark. Before the glue dries, make sure the vent is sitting up straight.

Forward Mast Cowling Vents
     Take the remaining two vents that's were taken from the same raised roof. Again, if the vents have there nipples still attached, cut them off at the base to make it level. Using the same plastic rods with the same dimensions as the forward vent, cut 2 lengths at 60mm each and attach the vents. Make sure the two pre-drilled holes in the deck are clear for the vents to sit inside. Mark a pen mark 10mm from the base of each vent and glue up to that mark. Slide each vent into the deck up to that mark. Before the glue dries, make sure the vent is sitting strait. Repeat the process on the other vent.


Support Rod For Mast & Vent
     As the vents are now fitted, you will notice that the tops are unstable. On the movie model, a fine wire support was fitted to stop the tops of the vents moving. On your RTT model we can recreate this using fine brass wire. Cut a length to 80mm. Starting from the left side of the rod, measure 15mm and bend the rod upwards. From the bend, measure again 25mm and bend the rod downwards. Once again measure another 15mm and bend the rod upwards. You will now have a rod bent into a W shape. 

Fitting The Support Rod
     At the back of the forward mast you will notice a long arm that runs up above the crows nest height. This is the main cargo boom used for lifting heavy items into the three forward cargo holds. Place the vent support rod between the boom and the mast at 5mm higher than the crows nest (level with the crows nest bell) and glue into place. The support rod arms need to be facing towards the bow so the rods can be glued into position around the vents. Using the pictures below, you can see where the rods need to fit onto the vents. When glue has dried you can then cut away the access rod level with the vents.

Lifeboat Davits On The "Raise The Titanic!" Model
     In your Titanic kit you will have 4 lots of davits that are ready to fit onto the boat deck. These davits need to be changed before fitting to your RTT model.  What I have done below is to show each set of davits that need to be changed. Some of the davits that are to be fitted to the Portside Stern need to removed from there base, Using your modeling knife, you can slice them away from the strip. Follow the pictures to see the alterations on each davit set. The davits that you have cut away can be put to one side for future use on the model. To create the davits that are bent, use a warm heat (hair dryer) and bend into shape.

Starboard Bow Davits
Portside Bow Davits

Starboard Stern Davits

Portside Stern Davits

     The lifeboat davits that have been cut away from the strip can be sliced in half to create a single davit. These will be used later on your model. They will appear flat on the decks and crushed against railings.

"Raise The Titanic!" - Bring The Model Home The Model So Far


     So there we have it for Stage 8. If you need any information or help with regards to the model or anything else Raise The Titanic, you can send me an email.  All the best.

John


Coming Up In Stage 9

Boat deck mud,  fitting the deck benches, fitting mast rigging and fitting railings

Print Stage 8

Click Here to Continue for Stage 9


 

 

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