Stage 5
B
Deck & A Deck
structures, fitting promenade walls, scratch building the bow bulkhead,
forward cargo cranes, funnel wires, boat deck, officers quarters, scratch
building the broken 2nd funnel, bridge section
*Please
Note*
Always keep your model instruction booklet to hand at all times for part
numbers & reference.
*WARNING!*
If your
child would like to build this model, please read the instructions below
as there are many times that sharp tools will be used.
Hello RTT fans,
has it really been 2 weeks since we last met, doesn't time fly. During
stage 5, your RTT model will take on a lot of familiar features that you
will recognize from the movie model, one of them being the broken 2nd
funnel. So lets get cracking.
I would like to take the time to remember the victims of September
11th. Some one year on, the memories of that tragic day have not faded.
Myself along with the people of Great Britain are proud to stand shoulder
to shoulder with our friends, the citizens of United States. God Bless
America
B Deck
Details Fit parts J37A
and J37B position. Moving to the stern section, fit parts
H6,H7,J26 and J25 into place. Then fit together sections J28
and J36 together and glue into place as shown in the booklet.
Next, fit the 2 small vents alongside. When completed, lightly mist a coat
of medium grey paint over the walls.
A Deck Section As you will see from the
booklet with the model, you can build the upper structure of the ship
separately from the hull. I find that it is easier to build the ship deck
by deck, but this is my own preference. Taking the A Deck section, glue it
into place and allow glue to dry. You may need to file out the 6 slots in
the deck to allow for better fitting. When the deck is secured, then you
can fit the A Deck Promenade Walls and stanchions into position as shown
in the booklet. When dry, coat the deck with glue and sprinkle on the
scenic chippings. After the chippings have dried, mist on a coat of medium
grey paint on the Promenade Walls. Raise The Titanic Bow
Bulkhead Many Titanic fans will
notice that on the 1980 movie model, there is a long solid bulkhead that
runs from the bow. On the original ship, this wall did not exist. For your
RTT model, you can use different materials to create the bulkhead. My
favorite is fine sheet brass, but you can use card or plastic. Cut 2
pieces of paper tape (to use as a marker) and count from the bow 5
portholes and place the tape onto the hull with the left side of the
tape on the right side of the 5th porthole. Cut a strip of brass, plastic
or card 110mm in length, 5mm in height and 0.05mm in
thickness. Measure from one end 55mm and bend in the middle. Take a
look at the picture of the fitted section on the model and cutout the 2
missing sections with a size of 10mm in length and 2mm
in
height. If you have made the bulkhead from plastic or brass, you will need
to do this using a file. Forward Cargo
Cranes Moving to the forward
well deck area, make and fit the step (part numbers C16 and C17)
and fit into place. If you have decided to fit
tomsmodelworks details sets onto your model, fit the crane
supports into place. Take parts G1A, G2A and C3 and fit onto
deck as seen in the photograph. Remember, the cranes are NOT to sit on the
supports. The ends of the crane booms are to sit on the deck.
Boat Deck This is my least
favorite part. All along the edge of the boat deck you will notice small
drill holes. These are for the funnel guy wires. Go to page 11 of your
model booklet and proceed with fitting the funnel wires into the deck
using the monofilament as advised in the book. To secure the wires to the
deck, place a small amount of enamel glue to each thread underneath the
boat deck. When the glue has dried, mist a coat of medium grey to the
underside of the deck and place part to one side and allow to dry. When
complete, then you can proceed to glue the deck into position. Using part
number G13,cut out 4 of the deck winches and attach to deck as seen
in the booklet.
Officers Quarters
*Please Note*
This
part of the model is not to be fitted to the deck
Now that the
boat deck is in place, we can proceed with fitting together one of the
boat deck upper structures. The first part will be the Officers Quarters
with its 1st Class Staircase Entrance and Bridge area. Take the roof
section and turn upside down. Take the bridge parts G10A,G10B,H20A,H20B
and J30 and glue all together. Then take parts H10,H11,J29
and J34 and glue together with the bridge section. When dry, you
can then glue to the underside of the roof section. When dry, mist a coat
of medium grey paint around the inside of the bridge section. Take the
large skylight parts H21 and skylight cover B1 and put to
one side for a moment. You can now detail the deck with the cowling vents
and large fans.
*Please Note*
Do not
glue the water pipe that fits onto the deck/large vent, this will be used
later.
Coming to the
skylight, you can glue the dome into place on the deck. In the movie, the
skylight covering is not the same throughout the film. When the ship is
found, the skylight is intact, but when one of the subs gets knocked into
the covering, the top gets crushed in. So its down to you how you want to
have the skylight. If you have decided to have the covering when its
crushed, the section of covering crushed is towards the large vent at the
base of the 2nd funnel. If you have decided to use the
tomsmodelworksadditional part, paint the surround medium grey and
put to one side. Mist a light coat of grey over the skylight windows,
leave for 30 seconds and then lightly wipe some of the paint off to create
a dirty looking glass. When completed you can then glue into position the
bridge front part J39 making sure that it dries level. You may want
to remove the cross framed windows in this section with your knife as the
window has no frames in it. Officers Roofs
Water Pipe After watching the movie
many times, I noticed that the water pipe is missing from the movie model.
Looking at the photographs I have , I did notice that the bottom of the
pipe is still attached to the deck, but the rest of the pipe is broken off
and missing. Cut the pipe off at the knuckle and keep the knuckle section
and glue into the deck. The main section of the pipe in NO longer
needed. The
"broken" 2nd Funnel
Please note that
when building any of the funnels NOT to use the water/cooler pipes
(C10,C15 etc) that are supplied with the kit as these are not seen on the
movie model.
After many weeks
searching for the sunken Titanic, Seagram had come to the conclusion from
eyewitness reports that when Titanic went down her 2nd funnel broke off.
The results leading to the fact that Titanic is lying 10 miles from their
original position. History tells us that the real Titanic did not loose
her 2nd funnel first. This major change to the movie model came about when
photographic stills that were to be used for the films advertising made
the Titanic look strange IF they removed the 1st funnel. So it was
decided to cut away the 2nd stack for a better appearance.
This part of the model is very awkward indeed and will need a lot of
time and patience. You only have one funnel section, so it pays not to
rush. Take the parts J16 and J23 from their tree. You will
notice that on the front and back of the stacks, there are pipes. The pipe
on the front of the stack needs to be removed completely, but the pipe on
the rear can be kept in place. Using a fine marker pen and my diagram of
the funnel sides, draw onto the parts.
Thumbnail
When it
comes to cutting the plastic, I used wire cutters and a modeling knife to
cut away the pieces, but be careful not to slip. You can also use the two
photographs of the 2nd funnel as a guide.
Thumbnails
When you have cut the two pieces out,
you can then glue the sides together.For the funnels, there is a
small cylinder shaped item that fits into the tops of each stack, this is
the inner skin. As the 2nd funnel will not need this for its top, you can
use this as the funnels inner skin that is fitted to the deck. For that
extra detail, cut out sections on the top of it to give the appearance
that the skin is broken and twisted. When you have done this, you can then
glue the inner skin and main funnel section onto the deck.
As you will see from
the photographs of the broken funnel, there are fine wires hanging from
the funnel. For that extra detail you can reproduced these using fine
wire.
"Raise The Titanic!"
The model so far!
At last, the
model is taking shape and beginning to look like the movie model. We still
have a long way to go but the end result will be a replica model of one of
the greatest liners and biggest movie flops of all time.
See you all soon, John
Coming up in
Stage 6
Making the 1st, 3rd & 4th funnels, raised roof area, 3rd
funnel tank, engine room skylight, 4th funnel base, 2nd class entrance,
Poopdeck cargo cranes, Poopdeck benches, Poopdeck docking bridge, stern
well deck cargo cranes & A Deck cargo cranes.
