*Please
Note*
Always keep your model instruction booklet to hand at all times for part
numbers & reference.
*WARNING!*
If your
child would like to build this model, please read the instructions below
as there are many times that sharp tools will be used.
Welcome back RTT
fans. I hope that you are progressing well with your Raise The Titanic
model. During Stage 4, I will be showing you how to make your model decks
look like they are covered with 68 years worth of mud. When I started
building RTT models, I used many materials to create the mud and I found
that the model "scenics" chippings worked the best. During the painting
stages of your model, the mud will be colored to give that feel of
realism. So on we go with Stage 4.
If you want to put that extra detail onto your model using photo
etched parts, now is a good time to order those parts from
www.tomsmodelworks.com. Click on his web site and take a look at
the huge range of items that can be used on your 1,350th Titanic.
At the bottom of this page, you will see what items you will need to
give your model a more realistic look. Fo'castle
Vents Below, is a illustration
of the positioning of the tall cowling vents. These are to be the main
features that make the Raise The Titanic model different from the real
1912 Titanic.
From the No1 hatch cover, measure
forward 5mm and drill a hole using a 2.0mm drill bit. From
the No1 hatch you will see 2 walls that fall and taper back. Measure from
the edge of the deck 20mm in and 15mm up and drill a hole
with your 2.0mm drill bit. Repeat the process on the other side.
Place the Fo'castle onto the hull (do not glue) and push the drill bit
through the holes and drill into the main deck below.
Thumbnail
Fo'castle Details Now its time to add all that deck detail. Follow the
instruction booklet supplied with your kit very carefully. To add a great
effect, why not drill out the centre of the deck vent with a 1.5mm
drill bit, but take care not to slip.
*Please
Note*
Not to fit the
forward mast or railings into position, also item numbers C11 & C26 must
NOT be fitted, please throw them away as you will not be using them. Cut
and attach all the lengths of rigging shown in booklet. Please remember
not to paint any of the parts as of yet.
Forward Well Deck Detail
Follow the booklet and glue into position all the parts for the
forward well deck, including part number J14 and numbers J13a / J13b.
DO NOT fit the cargo cranes into place. This will be done at a later
stage. You can use the kits own deck ladder or you can use the ones from
tomsmodelworks that are the 1/350th Titanic to give that extra detail
and effect.
Rear Well Deck Detail Like the forward well deck, follow the booklet and use the
parts as indicated. DO NOT fit the cargo cranes into place as they
will be fitted at a later date.
Poopdeck Details
Detail the Poopdeck area, but DO NOT put deck
benches, cargo cranes or Docking Bridge (number J10) into position
as these will be used at a later date.
C-Deck Walls Fit parts J4, J19, J20 and G36 into place, this will form
the outer walls of the 2nd Class Library. When glue is dry, use a light
grey matt paint to color up the small area of deck and outer walls. When
paint is dry, glue roof part number 12 into position along with its
rigging and 2 small vents. DO NOT fit the benches into position as this
will be done at a later date.
Ageing The Decks
Well, the time has come
to get all messy. To give your RTT model the look of a wreck that has been
lying on the ocean floor for 68 years, her decks need to covered with MUD.
The best effect is to use "scenics" chippings.
This is often used in model railway settings for forest floors or
grassy embankments. It is available is different grades from fine to
coarse, and various colors, but for the RTT model, and too keep too scale,
we will be using the fine scale chippings. These can be purchased from any
large model stores. If you have any problems locating this material, just
drop me an
e-mail, and I will point you in right direction.
Using a medium grade size 7 (old) model paint brush and your enamel
modeling glue, paint the glue onto the forward well deck area. Be careful
not to go onto the white area of the superstructure).
Cover the whole area including hatch covers with the glue. Take a small
tea spoon with the chippings on and lightly sprinkle them onto the glued
area.
Press the chippings down gently with your finger tips and leave for
about 1 minute. Turn your model upside down and shake the loose chippings
away. Repeat this process with the rear well deck area. For best effect,
it would be better not to build the chippings up too much. The decks need
to be covered lightly.
Glue into position both Poop & Fo'castle decks. When glue has dried,
again, paint the decks with your enamel glue, remembering not to paint the
too much of the deck details, and sprinkle an even amount of chippings
onto the deck.
Brush a coat of glue on the stern B-Deck area and cover with the
chippings.
All exposed areas of deck will be covered with mud.
Follow the same method with each deck area when "mudding" up. Remember to
shake off any loose chipping before going onto the next area of decking.
When you have completed the decks, leave model to dry. Don't worry if your
RTT model is looking "worse for wear", because that's what we want.
So, that's Stage 4 out of the way. I will see you all again in Stage
5 where we will be building up the next lot of decks and more dreaded mud.
See you all soon.
Tom's
ModelWorks
1/350th Scale Titanic Parts List / Price
This is the list of items available to purchase from
www.tomsmodelworks.com for use on your RTT model. They are
made from fine brass and are a wonderful extra for your model to give
realism and character. Below, I have parts numbered each item with price.
*Please Note*
Prices below do not include postage &
handling.
