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Print Stage 3

Stage 3
Bulkheads & Hull Details
Includes : Bulkheads, supporting rods, bilge keel, propeller shafts, rudder & main deck

*Please Note*
Always keep your model instruction booklet to hand at all times for part numbers & reference.

*WARNING!*
If your child would like to build this model, please read the instructions below as there are many times that sharp tools will be used.

The Bulkheads
Part One
     Welcome back RTT fans. I take it you have all had a good rest after drilling out all those portholes.  If you have, then lets get cracking with Stage 3.
     If you opted to cut the iceberg gash into the hull, you may want to add that extra detail.  During the construction of the Titanic in 1910-12, her huge 882 foot length hull was divided into 16 watertight compartments. It was said that if during a collision at sea with another vessel and if 4 of these compartments became fully flooded, Titanic could stay afloat. Titanic was considered to be "Unsinkable", but on the cold night of April 14th, the iceberg opened up 5 of her compartments and proved the builders wrong.

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     You can make the bulkheads from 1.00mm card. Print off the Bulkhead Template onto a A4 sheet of card, then cut them out, remember to number with a pencil each bulkhead as you do this. As you will see, each bulkhead has securing flaps for when you glue them into position. On each flap you will see a dotted line,  score across the line with either the edge of a pair of scissors or knife, but remember not to cut right the way through, then put the bulkheads to one side as you will be needing them soon.

Hull Supporting Rods
     To help support the hull in the area of where the bulkheads are to be fitted, you will need to fit (2) supporting rods. Cut from plastic tube ( you can use some of the frame from the parts tree ) one rod at 75mm in length and one at 55mm in length. You will see that inside the hull there is a small ledge, this is where the main deck will sit, so you will need to fit the rods about 10mm below that ledge.  Take the 75mm rod and glue into position 250mm from the tip of the bow, then glue the 55mm rod some 105mm from the tip of the bow.  Also, be careful NOT to glue to rods into place where there are portholes as the glue is likely to run out. When you have done this, allow the glue to dry.

The Bulkheads
Part Two
     Its time to fit the bulkheads into position. You can use your enamel glue for this as it will hold the card without any problems. Start with the smallest bulkhead No1 that fits at the tip of the bow and work you way back to No6. Follow the chart for the distance between each bulkhead. Remember that the measurements start from the bow.

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• Bulkhead No1 - 065mm from bow

• Bulkhead No2 - 090mm from bow

• Bulkhead No3 - 120mm from bow

• Bulkhead No4 - 150mm from bow

• Bulkhead No5 - 190mm from bow

• Bulkhead No6 - 250mm from bow

     After you have fitted them, allow the glue to dry. When the glue has dried you can then paint the bulkheads dark grey.  Like before, allow to dry before continuing onto the next stage.

Port & Starboard Bilge Keels
     Take the Port & Starboard side bilge keel fins F1R & F1L from there parts tree and glue into place and allow to dry.

Port & Starboard Propeller Shafts
     Cut the propeller shafts F3A & F3B from the parts tree and glue into place. Allow glue to dry.

Rudder
     Take the rudder parts F4A & F4B and glue them together allowing to dry. Slide the rudder onto its pins on the stern. You have now got the option of either gluing the rudder into position or you can leave it to move freely from side to side.

Main Deck
     This is the main deck structure for the model as it holds the top of the hull in place for the superstructure. The deck comes in two pieces D1 & D2 that need to be glued together.

      I have found that there are times the deck structure (when glued together) seems to be too short to line up inside the hull. Check first to see if the deck fits properly before you glue them together. As instructed in the model booklet, cut 4 lengths of the monofilament (rigging) to 16" long and glue into place. Once you have done this you can then proceed with fitting and gluing the deck into the hull.

     In Stage 4, I will be showing you how to put the mud onto the main deck and detail the Poop Deck & Fo'castle deck.  See you all next time.

John

Coming In Stage 4

Main deck detail, creating the mud, Poopdeck detail & fitting, Fo'castle detail & fitting, scratch building the bow bulkhead & cowling vents.

Print Stage3

Click Here to Continue for Stage 4