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• Stage 2
*Please Note*
*WARNING!* Hello fellow model
builders and Raise The Titanic fans. Welcome to Stage 2 of
"Raise The Titanic! - Bring the Model Home". In this stage, I will be
showing you all that is needed to prepare the hull for your RTT model. I
have included step by step photographs and illustrations showing
the stages of construction along with alterations that need to be done.
So lets start with the hull piece.
*Note* Next we need to improve the ships prow Hawser.
![]() Then to finish, use a slightly larger drill bit 2.00mm to enlarge the edge of the hole. Finish by using your fine grade paper to clean. Portholes No1 Hull Sides You will notice that your Titanic hull is covered with small round indentations, these are the ships portholes. For more realism you can drill these out to make your model stand out. Before starting this process, be warned that it can take a long time as there are many to drill out. For the larger portholes you can use a 1.00mm drill bit and for the smaller portholes I would recommend a 0.5mm drill bit. When using the smaller drill bit, be careful not to be too heavy handed as they are prone to break very easily. Portholes No2 Foredeck /Forecastle Using your 0.5mm drill bit, drill the portholes along the Foredeck / Forecastle walls. Stern Section / Poop Deck On the Titanic model hull, there are some portholes that have not been included on the stern section. Follow the position of the portholes. Again you will need to use your 0.5mm drill bit. You will notice from my illustration, that on the stern, I have cut into the hull to create the missing hull plate joins. You too can also do this by using your modeling craft knife, but be careful when using the knife.
When the movie was made, it was released some 5 years before the real Titanic was found. For decades, many people, including historians, believed that the Titanic went to the bottom from a huge 300 foot gash in her starboard side. In the movie, when Dirk Pitt finds the sunken Titanic, she has this huge gapping gash in her hull, so we need to reproduce that fatal iceberg damage.
*Please Note*
This is the tricky part, but I will guide you through it as best as I
can. To create the gash, I used a hand held jigsaw cutter with a fine
metal cutting blade. Using a fine blade reduces the teeth on the blade
from snapping huge chunks from the hull. From the tip of the starboard
side of the hull, mark a spot 1:1/2 inches from the bow, this is where
the iceberg damage starts from. Again from that same spot on the tip of
the bow, measure back 10 inches and mark a second spot, this is where
the iceberg damage stops. PLEASE NOTE that along both sides of the hull
there is a very fine line, this is the water line, DO NOT cut above this
line. |
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