Stage 2-7/15/2002

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• Stage 1-6/29/2002 • Stage 2-7/15/2002 • Stage 3-7/29/2002 • Stage 4-8/15/2002 • Stage 5-8/29/2002 • Stage 6-9/15/2002 • Stage 7-9/29/2002 • Stage 8-10/15/2002 • Stage 9-11/15/2002 • Stage 10-11/29/2002 • Stage 11-1/19/2003 • Stage 12-2/15/2003 • Stage 13-2/28/2003 • Stage 14 & 15-3/29/2003 •

Print Stage 2

Stage 2
Hull Preparation & Improvements
Includes: Hull preparation, improvements, portholes, hull detail & iceberg damage.

*Please Note*
Always keep your model instruction booklet in hand at all times for parts numbers & reference.

*WARNING!*
If your child would like to build this model, please read the instructions below as there are many times that sharp tools will be used.

     Hello fellow model builders and Raise The Titanic fans. Welcome to Stage 2 of "Raise The Titanic! - Bring the Model Home". In this stage, I will be showing you all that is needed to prepare the hull for your RTT model. I have included step by step photographs and illustrations showing the stages of construction along with alterations that need to be done. So lets start with the hull piece.

The Hull
    
With many mass produced kits, there was never much time for the model manufactures to clean up the parts, so your pre-formed hull will need to have many of its edges sanded down to remove the flash. You can use fine grade sand paper to do this. I would recommend 800 - 1000 grit grade paper for the edges. If you wish to remove the roughness from the join on flat bottom of the hull, then you can use 180 grit followed by 1000 grit.
 

*Note*
You must not sand the sides of the hull down with coarse paper or you will remove the hulls details.

Next we need to improve the ships prow Hawser.
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     Going to the bow of your model, you will notice a small molded cap. On the real Titanic, lines would be passed through this for towing the ship in and out of ports. Using a 1.00mm drill bit, drill into the centre of the molded cap. It does not matter if you drill straight through.

     Then to finish, use a slightly larger drill bit 2.00mm to enlarge the edge of the hole. Finish by using your fine grade paper to clean.

Portholes No1

Hull Sides
     You will notice that your Titanic hull is covered with small round indentations, these are the ships portholes. For more realism you can drill these out to make your model stand out. Before starting this process, be warned that it can take a long time as there are many to drill out. For the larger portholes you can use a 1.00mm drill bit and for the smaller portholes I would recommend a 0.5mm drill bit. When using the smaller drill bit, be careful not to be too heavy handed as they are prone to break very easily.

Portholes No2

Foredeck /Forecastle
     Using your 0.5mm drill bit, drill the portholes along the Foredeck / Forecastle walls.

Stern Section / Poop Deck
     On the Titanic model hull, there are some portholes that have not been included on the stern section. Follow the position of the portholes. Again you will need to use your 0.5mm drill bit. You will notice from my illustration, that on the stern, I have cut into the hull to create the missing hull plate joins. You too can also do this by using your modeling craft knife, but be careful when using the knife.

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Iceberg Damage
     When the movie was made, it was released some 5 years before the real Titanic was found. For decades, many people, including historians, believed that the Titanic went to the bottom from a huge 300 foot gash in her starboard side. In the movie, when Dirk Pitt finds the sunken Titanic, she has this huge gapping gash in her hull, so we need to reproduce that fatal iceberg damage.

*Please Note*
You do not have to follow my method of recreating the iceberg damage. If you wish too at a later date, you can use my illustration as a guide line and paint the damage onto the hull.

     This is the tricky part, but I will guide you through it as best as I can. To create the gash, I used a hand held jigsaw cutter with a fine metal cutting blade. Using a fine blade reduces the teeth on the blade from snapping huge chunks from the hull. From the tip of the starboard side of the hull, mark a spot 1:1/2 inches from the bow, this is where the iceberg damage starts from. Again from that same spot on the tip of the bow, measure back 10 inches and mark a second spot, this is where the iceberg damage stops. PLEASE NOTE that along both sides of the hull there is a very fine line, this is the water line, DO NOT cut above this line.

     Drill a hole into the area to be occupied with the gash, this way it gives you a better start to cutting the hull. Slowly cut into the hull using the jigsaw. Remember not to stay too long in one spot when the jigsaw is cutting as this could burn the plastic. Once you have cut the gash, clean the inside & outside with sanding paper to remove any rough edges. You do not have to use a jigsaw for this, you can use your modeling knife, but please take your time and be careful. Remember, if you do not want to cut into the hull, you can always paint the iceberg damage onto the hull at a later date.
     There you have it, we have come to the end of Stage 2. You hull is now ready for more detail. In Stage 3, I will be showing you how to make the ships bulkheads that can be seen through the iceberg damage.  See you all next time.

John

Coming In Stage 3

Bow supporting rods, bulkhead template, making the bulkheads, hull bilge keels, propeller shafts, rudder & fitting main deck.

Print Stage 2

Click Here to Continue for Stage 3


 

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